PAUANNE, A PLACE OF MYSTERY AND HEALING by Bonnie and Bill Neely

Sometimes on a trip, when things are unplanned, you have a serendipity you could never plan if you tried. We were driving through forests on road 13 in the Lake District in Central Finland, off of E 75, when we stopped in a tiny crossroads town to mail some post cards in the orange Posti. They spoke good English, so we asked what was of interest nearby. The postal clerk directed us to the find of the day: a mystical place of ancient rites which they couldn’t explain.
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We drove just two kilometers and found Pauanne, a area with huge granite, rounded dome rocks covered with moss and lichens. There was a stone bridge which must be for cross-country skiers. The quaint, desserted, wooden buildings were intricately designed and appeared old, but we learned later most are not so old and are used by a doctor specializing in unusual natural healing therapies. One authentic sauna hut was quite ancient and large enough for a group.
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A brick oven with a dome chimney was centered with a huge millstone wheel attached to an enormous wood bellows to blow the fire. Wood platforms were all around for people to lie, or sit in this sweat lodge which holds the heat for hours, even after the fire dies. Outside there are ancient symbols, a human-shaped wood cross, and a fire pit. These have legends of mystery that cause the locals to want to stay away. We wish we knew the language to understand the story, but even those who knew English wouldn’t speak the tales, as if it were bad luck to do so.