Luxembourg is not the primary destination for many Americans planning a trip to Europe. However, this small country of 1000 square miles; and its capital, Luxembourg City, deserve exploring. Luxembourg City is an easy train ride from Brussels, Paris, Amsterdam and other European cities and can also be reached by major European airlines and by car. A $30 first-class train ticket from Brussels gave me an opportunity to comfortably view the scenery of eastern Belgium and the Ardennes Forest area of northwestern Luxembourg, arriving at the Gare Centrale station mid-afternoon. Those traveling light are able to walk to the central city area in about 20 minutes. (The Grund. Photo ©1995 John Davies http://www.davies.lu)
This is one of the most picturesque cities in the world; built on plateaus of sandstone overlooking 2 converging rivers. Its founding date is listed as 963, when a member of the royal Luxembourg family built a small castle on a rock outcrop. Since then it has been the scene of numerous armed conflicts with its neighbors and has been repeatedly conquered; notwithstanding its triple ring of fortifications, which at one time encompassed 24 forts.
To celebrate its history, the city developed a walking path with signage in multiple languages to depict its 1000 years of history in the 100 minutes that it takes to complete the walk. Beginning in the Bock Casemates, which are tunnels honeycombing the high hills of the fortress overlooking the city, one can view the antechambers where cannons were placed. Not only did soldiers live in this warren of rooms and tunnels, all the support functions, such as workshops, laundries, kitchens, etc., were housed here. During WWII the complex served as a gigantic air raid shelter for the city residents. The walk continues down the hillside to the lower towns lining the banks of the River Alzette. The suburb of Grund contains Neumunster Abbey, which traded its religious heritage for use as a military hospital and prison before its latest reincarnation as a social and cultural center of Luxembourg City.
The place d’Armes is a pedestrian square and center for entertainment, hotels, restaurants and even markets. On alternating Saturdays, a flea market takes place; and if you happen to visit in December, the Christmas Market is a must. Vendors sell crafts and gifts from their small booths, and hot mulled wine is readily available to warm the shoppers.
The Hotel Francais, (Photo ©1998-2000 John Lohse, Fairplay Assoc. http://www.atyourpace.com)
overlooking the square, is an excellent, moderately-priced hotel. The rooms overlooking place d’Armes are occasionally a bit noisy, but they provide hours of entertaining views of the square. The hotel offers delicious food at its French/Italian brasserie on the first floor, with seating on the front terrace during warm weather.
While in Luxembourg City, detour from the newly constructed business area, which is home to over 200 banks known world-wide for their expertise and discretion, and you will find a picturesque view down each narrow, winding street.
Due to its international business component, its shopping and dining opportunities are varied. Many high-end European designer boutiques, art galleries and jewelry stores clog the streets in the old town; and, while French cuisine prevails, robust German cooking and other delicious ethnic fare are readily available.
Luxembourg City is a safe and charming small city of 120,000 inhabitants and a very comfortable place to stop for a few days.
For additional information consult the website of Luxembourg City (www.luxembourg-city.lu) or visit the tourist information centers at the airport, Gare Central train station, or in the place d’Armes.
Hotel/Restaurant Francais
Place d’Armes 14
Tel: 352/47-45-34
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