Let’s start with a bit of history; Mexico has 31 states set up much like their US counterparts. Many people recognize Mexico City, Acapulco, Cancun, Cabo San Lucas, but I had to check my map when I was invited for a 5 day press trip to Jalisco. Does it help if I tell you Puerto Vallarta is in Jalicso? But since I did not travel to that beach resort city some 200 miles away, let me mention Mariachi and Tequila, the two treasures of Jalisco.
I flew through Dallas/Fort Worth changing planes for Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city with 3 million residents and 6 million in the metro area. My home for four nights was the Hilton Guadalajara with a room on the top executive floor. Located directly across the street from the large and very busy conference/convention center, the executive floors offered a full breakfast and canapés and wine in the evening, plus a separate check-in concierge.
Guadalajara means “River that runs among the rocks”in Arabic. The city is located 350 miles from Mexico City in the western end of Mexico; (remember Puerto Vallarta borders on the Pacific Ocean). My visit was timed with the start of the 10 day International Mariachi & Charro Festival. The Mariachi Band was “born” in Cocula, about 46 miles southwest of Guadalajara and is immortalized with a Mariachi Museum. The festival opened with a two hour parade including the best Mariachi bands in the world, Charros (Mexican cowboys), beauty queens, sponsored floats and bands singing and dancing. There were several US representatives, mostly from Texas and Arizona. Our Jalisco Tourist Board hosts provided passes giving us street level access to the parade right in front of the TV cameras.
After the parade we were taken to the opening ceremonies at the 1,500 seat Degallado Opera House built in 1866 where the Jalisco Symphony Orchestra performed with the three best Mariachi bands in the world.
As a first time visitor we spent a day in the historic center visiting the cathedral, capitol building (seat of the Jalisco government), Plaza de Armas (central plaza), Plaza Tapatia. We also visited the Cabanas Cultural Institute, with the J.C. Orozco paintings on the ceilings and walls portraying graphically the history of Mexico, religiously, governmentally and socially. The same artist has several murals in the capitol rotunda. Make sure you get a guide to explain the symbolism of all his work. They will give you an insight into Mexican history from rule by Spain through independence (1810), celebrated every September 16th.
Your visit to Jalisco should include several trips to the surrounding areas, none more than a two hour drive. Lake Chapala is Mexico’s largest lake, and on the way stop for lunch at the Hotel Real de Chapala in Ajijic, a town with the largest Canadian retirement community outside Florida, as well as a very large US contingent. Nearby Tonala is an artisan town and it was here I learned how to make Tortilla’s, the country’s national food. (We will get to the national drink a bit later).
My first night away from the Hilton was spent at the 16 room Hotel Hacienda del Carmen, about 36 miles from Guadalajara. The converted monastery offered horseback riding, golf, tennis and a modern spa in sharp contrast to the 282 year old building. The individualized rooms were large with high ceilings and modern bathrooms. If the large style (but elegant) Hilton is not your cup of tea, besides the Hotel Hacienda try the 10 room Hotel Villa Ganz, near the downtown Guadalajara historical center. They are a part of the Mexico Boutique Hotels with the 33 member properties ranging from 4 to 70 rooms.
Continuing my visit to nearby towns I spent an afternoon in Tlaquepaque which also offered native Mexican handicrafts, a ceramics museum, and several art and furniture galleries all along a pedestrian street.
Now for the national drink- Tequila. The finest brands are 100% Blue Agave which is not a cactus but part of the lily family. Others can be labeled tequila without the 100% agave imprint. There are white or silver and gold (caramel added for color), perfect for mixing and in Margaritas; Reposado that is aged 2 months to 1 year; and Anejo, aged 1 to 5 years using oak casks. Don’t confuse tequila with mezcal made from other agaves and in the state of Oaxaca. The two major centers for tequila are one hour east (town of Arandas) and one hour west (town of Tequila) of Guadalajara. Your first visit in the town of Tequila should be the private Museum of Sauza; then the public Museum of Tequila and finally the tour at Cuervo, the largest producer. After a tour of the distillery and the agave fields try to get an invite to La Rojena, Cuervo’s private reception area across the street from the distillery.
Aranda was founded in 1761 and has a bit over 100,000 people. We visited Centinela Distillery that produces both Centinela and Cabrito brands. I broke away for a 5 minute drive to Cazadores, founded in 1922 with the distillery having been built in 1973. In 2002 Bacardi purchased the company and has modernized the plant, bottling line and retail store. I was allowed to taste Corzo, the new super-premium Tequila that will be available in the western US by the time you read this story. The high-end products seem to be the fastest growing segment of the Tequila business.
Not quite so high tech is the introduction of classical music (Rachmaninoff Piano Concerto) during the fermentation process. I was told it sooths and relaxes the yeast. Jalisco has something for everyone; culture, history, artifacts, shopping, great weather, fine dining, terrific hotel choices and of course Mariachi music, plus Mexico’s national drink- Tequila. It all came together for me during my 5 days in Jalisco.
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