Walking on the soft, wet sand I turn and watch as my footprints disappear under the waves that are now beginning to swallow up the narrow strand of beach behind me. Will I be able to walk back to my new temporary home the way I came or will I need to take one of the many public access walkways out to the wide, well maintained asphalt combination bikeway-walkway- jogging path that follows the oceanfront for miles in front of the waterfront homes on the Outer Banks?
If I had the time and ambition and energy I could walk more than 100 miles on these beautiful deserted beaches and hardly meet a soul. This exquisite desolation is only temporary. Or so I’m told by the locals who seem to love this time of year. It’s fall and the summer hordes of tourists are gone back home, getting ready for the holidays. Some of the smart ones will be back here for Thanksgiving and Christmas, but most will wait till summer when the Outer Banks of North Carolina become, once more, alive with activity.
So why am I here now? Now that the lifeguards have gone back to school or followed the sun to warmer venues? Why am I in a place called Nag’s Head, just a short walk from the entrance to Jockey’s Ridge State Park?
Well, let me tell you why I’m here and why you might want to be here, too, when you have the opportunity. Do you remember Wilbur and Orville Wright? The bicycle mechanics from Dayton, Ohio. They’re part of the story and I’ll get back to them.
First, though let me explain that Jockey’s Ridge is the tallest natural sand dune in the Eastern United States. So named, perhaps, because the early inhabitants used to capture wild ponies and race them on the flat surface near the base of the dunes while the spectators sat up on the higher sides of the ridges to watch the excitement.
Nowadays the dunes are used for other purposes, many just as exciting. The world’s largest hang gliding school run by Kitty Hawk Kites uses the dunes for their campus. The almost constant wind allows for a gentle take-off and the soft dunes allow for something of a cushion when a beginner’s first flight goes somewhat awry. The instructors here are a cheerful bunch who spend the day running alongside the novice hang gliders as they coast down the slopes and then trudging back up the hill with the glider for the next student to take his turn. But it’s not just for beginners.Wright Brothers Memorial, Outer Banks, NC I was told that gliders have managed to sail off the top of this 80 to 100 foot dune and sail for long distances. At least one adventurous soul has been known to sail all the way up to the Wright Brothers National Memorial and back, the distance being several miles.
O.K., back to the brothers. I managed to get to the Memorial, too, but not attached to a hang glider. It’s just a short drive north in Kill Devil Hills and it would be a shame to visit the Outer Banks and not see the museum and the striking monument on the hill. There is a full scale reproduction of the Wright flying machine and a most interesting granite boulder marking the site of the flights. You must walk the path from the boulder to the markers along the path of the flight to get the feel of the actual flights that took place on that historic day. Wilbur flew first, then Orville, then Wilbur and then, once again Orville. It seems only fair that one of the brothers was the first to fly on that day and the other was the one to fly the farthest.
Of course, if you really want to fly even higher you can zip out to the airport in Manteo and check in with Dillon’s Aviation for a private flight and see everything from the air. Not only will you be able to circle around the Wright Brothers Memorial, but you can cruise the waterfront and spot dolphins playing in the breakers, check out the lighthouses, watch the fishing boats and get a terrific overview of the whole area. You should be able to see the site of the Lost Colony Outdoor Drama, the sand dunes and even the home of Andy Griffith – a local resident.
When you get up in the plane you’ll probably notice that there is a lot of water around besides the ocean. And it’s just waiting to be explored by kayak! There are plenty of places to rent a kayak or sign up for a guided eco tour. I used Carolina Outdoors and had a great time. The kayaks are stable, easy to paddle and a great way to get up close to the native birds. You can explore the Bodie Island Wildlife Refuge, the Kitty Hawk Woods Maritime Forest or paddle through the marshes surrounding Roanoke Island while learning about the history of the area.
And, when you get tired of paddling or you just want to see the local sea life the easy way, you can visit the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island. Here you’ll have a chance to see alligators, wonderfully playful river otters, freshwater fish and, of course, sharks. You won’t want to miss the giant tarantula, the black widow spider, venomous snakes or the electric eel. And bring your camera – if you don’t want to go diving for your favorite North Carolina aquatic photo, you can enter the “Aquarium” division of their Underwater Photography contest.
You may want to wind down a bit from some of your busy activity schedule by visiting the serene and beautiful Elizabethan Gardens. Still on Roanoke Island, every season brings a change to the Gardens. Everything from spectacular camelias to beautiful azaleas, dogwoods, magnolias, chrysanthemums and, not to be missed, the Queen’s Rose Garden. cardinal, Cape Hatteras, NCStroll through and visit the statue of Virginia Dare, first English child born in America, find the Bashful Girl, look for the topiary deer and bears on the edge of a clearing, marvel at the beautiful Sunken Garden and discover the 16th century style gazebo with its thatched English reed roof overlooking Roanoke Sound. And, if you’re lucky, spot the bright, cheery Cardinal eating berries beside the antique filled Gate House.
Before I escort you off Roanoke Island there a couple of more things I want to mention. If you’re here in the summer you’ll want to attend a performance of the Symphonic Drama “The Lost Colony” written by Pulitzer Prize winning playwright Paul Green. It is the 400 year old mystery of the first English settlers in America and the famous lost colony of Roanoke that vanished without a trace. But, if you’re here in the off season – my favorite time – you can still visit the Elizabeth II, a full scale replica of a 16th century sailing ship. Roanoke Island, NCThe Roanoke Adventure Museum will thrill you with the 400 year Outer Banks history and the film “The Legend of Two Path” will give an insight into the reaction of the Native Americans who were already living here when their home was “discovered.” And the Festival Park may be holding an art exhibit or a historical fair with participants in period costume.
You simply can’t visit the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and not see at least a couple of the historic lighthouses in the area. My favorites are the Bodie Island Lighthouse and the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.
The one on Bodie Island is 156 feet high and has bold black and white horizontal stripes. If you walk around to the back side you’ll find a nature trail that leads out onto an observation platform and a boardwalk extending out into the Bodie Island Marshes – a great place for viewing wildfowl during the winter months.
The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, also known as “America’s Lighthouse” is truly spectacular. At 208 feet high it’s the tallest brick beacon in the United States. With it’s black and white spiral striping it’s a favorite not only for it’s striking appearance, but also because it is open for climbing during the summer months. And can you imagine moving a lighthouse? Well this one was moved and there is a great little documentary film that shows you just how it was done!
You may not have time to visit all the lighthouses on the Outer Banks, but you’ll definitely want to visit the Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station for a better understanding of why all these lighthouses are so important to the Cape Hatteras area. Aside from the interesting architecture the guides there will tell you stories about the many shipwrecks off the coast and how the courageous lifeguards risked their own lives to haul in the survivors.
If all this activity has worn you out then head back to your home, put your feet up by the fire as you watch the waves breaking on the beach and enjoy a cup of hot chocolate . . . or coffee . . . or soup . . . or whatever you choose. Yes, you do have all these choices because you’re not going back to a tiny little motel room. You were clever enough to call a realtor and rent a home on the oceanfront for your stay on the Outer Banks. Coming back to a “home” rather than a “room,” has a lot of benefits. Let me tell you about the “home” I stayed in for a week. This was a large one because there were several of us staying. This would be an ideal place for a family reunion, a holiday get together or just a bunch of old friends finally finding the perfect place to renew old ties.
On the ground level was the “kids” area. Several rooms with bunk beds and a game room equipped with a pool table, foosball, air hockey, big screen TV and an assortment of games. Even a well equipped exercise room.
The second level held several bedrooms – I forgot to count them all – and the top level where I stayed had three bedrooms, an expansive living room and dining room and a magnificent kitchen – overlooking the swimming pool, the back deck and, of course, the
Atlantic Ocean.
The kitchen has double ovens, double dish washers, double refrigerators – the works! I know what you’re thinking. You didn’t go on vacation to cook and do dishes! Don’t worry, there are plenty of fine restaurants and you can even have meals catered. I’ll list some restaurants at the end of my story. But wouldn’t this be a great spot to bring the whole extended family and prepare an unbelievable Thanksgiving or Christmas or anytime FEAST? This beautiful property was booked through Village Realty and I’m sure they’d be glad to assist you, too.
I know some of you are shoppers so I won’t ignore you. There are many quaint little shops that you’ll probably find more appealing than the big chain stores (you can shop them when you get home). You may want to check out locally crafted chairs, swings and hammocks at Nags Head Hammocks, hand crafted baskets at Coastal Attitude or visit one of the many art galleries. When is the last time you went out and flew a kite? What better activity to share with your kids? Or your best friend? Try Kitty Hawk Kites. After all, this is kite country and they’re the nations #1 kite store!
So call your friends or family together and make plans for the next big gathering. There are plenty of opportunities for the outdoors types, the golfers, the readers, the shoppers, the artists, the photographers, the history buffs, the wine tasters, the sightseers . . . something for everyone!
Head for the Outer Banks. Chances are you’ll find what you’re looking for!
Real Travel Adventures 