By Saul Schwartz
My wife Fern and I embarked in Seward, Alaska, on the Viking Orion. Our first port stop was Valdez. We began our Alaska Cruise after 5 days of sightseeing in Alaska by land. To really see Alaska, I would recommend land tours and a cruise.
Valdez:
Valdez enjoys a breathtaking setting at the tip of a deep-cut fjord in Prince William Sound, even on our rainy day in this port. The glacial Chugach Mountains rise all around the city. Valdez is the southern terminus of the 800-mile Trans-Alaska pipeline. It is North American’s northernmost ice-free port. There is a sculpture by Malcolm Alexander at the city dock related to honoring pipeline workers.
We docked at around 8 a.m. and stayed in Valdez until 3 p.m. In the morning, on a cool day, Fern and I walked about 15 minutes from the city dock to several local sites. All the attractions were within about 10 minutes’ walk of each other. The population of Valdez is about 4000.
Valdez Museum – The two-building museum has a small display about the March 1989 oil spill of the Exxon Valdez, when eleven million gallons of crude oil went into Prince William Sound. Other exhibits discuss the impact of the pipeline, the 1964 earthquake in Valdez and mining history. We particularly enjoyed a temporary photograph exhibit from local artists. One building of the museum is on Egan Drive and one is on Hazelet Street, close to the city dock.
Maxine and Jesse Whitney Museum – This small museum contains a fascinating collection of native art and artifacts collected by the Whitneys from 1947 to 1998. The collection includes a wide variety of elaborate native pieces.
Convention and Civil Center – A 35-minute video plays throughout the day detailing the history of Valdez. The remote frontier town grew with gold seekers from the Klondike gold rush trail. Gold was never found here, but the town grew, nevertheless. Today Valdez thrives on fishing and oil.
On ironically named Meals Avenue, we stopped at Safeway to get some food items to take with us.
In the afternoon, we went on a panoramic motor coach tour to more remote attractions. We discovered the beauty of Alaska’s wilderness on a scenic trip to Thompson Pass, the snowiest place in Alaska. Here the elevation is 2805 feet above sea level. Keystone Canyon – Several waterfalls are nestled within the canyon’s steep rock face. We stopped at the 328-foot Horsetail Falls and the 600-foot Bridal Vail Falls. Their snow and icy meltwaters cascade over towering canyon walls from hundreds of feet above.
Solomon Gulch Fish Hatchery – Here we learned about Alaska’ most abundant resource – salmon. We went on a short tour around the privately owned salmon hatchery. The hatchery was opened in 1980.
Old Town Valdez –The original town site was destroyed in the 1964 earthquake. There are some memorial plaques, and the foundation of the post office remains. We learned that the town is planning to add more historical markers at this site.
Hubbard Glacier:
On the next day of our cruise, we went very close to this tidewater glacier. Off the coast of Yakutat, the Hubbard Glacier is located about 200 miles northwest of Juneau. Hubbard is certainly gigantic! It is more than six miles wide where it meets the ocean, and the entire glacier is about the size of Rhode Island. The face rises up to 400 feet tall out of the water, and it is 70 miles long.
We went on the outside deck, so that we could stand in awe at this wonder of the natural world. The Viking Orion entered Disenchantment Bay so that we could closely admire the mighty glacier. At the same time, we listened through headsets to commentary about the glacier from Dr. Jay Christofferson.
Seeing the largest tidewater glacier in North America was the highlight of our first day at sea. It is a prime stopping point for cruise ships between Seward and Southeast Alaska. This really made our first day at sea (without a port) special!
Icy Strait Point (Hoonah):
We next docked in Icy Strait Point at 8:00 a.m. We were able to spend time until 2:00 p.m. in the re-created village outside the small town of Hoonah, which is in a sheltered inlet off Icy Strait. There are about 900 residents in Alaska’s largest Tlingit community.
Located on the island of Chichagof, this is a thriving Tlingit community. In this coastal woodland setting, the charming island hamlet is steeped in Native American heritage. The caretakers go to great lengths to preserve this “open air museum” and have won awards for their efforts in sustaining the village’s authenticity and original character.
We walked from the dock to the Adventure Center where we got our tickets for the gondola. At the Adventure Center, there are a series of colorful totem poles.
With our gondola pass, we ascended the mountaintop to admire spectacular views from the summit. The gondola ride is in two parts. The first gondola ride is relatively flat, going over the lush green treetops. We looked down to see deer. Then we switched to the second gondola line, ascending straight upward over Glacier Bay to the top of Hoonah Mountain.
At the Native Heritage Center, we watched a live performance of song, dance, and storytelling. In this tribal dance and cultural legends performance, locals provided insight into tribal customs, history, and culture. Native Americans in colorful costumes performed the story of the sun, the moon, and the stars. Fern volunteered to participate in a dance lesson after the performance. She was allowed to wear some authentic vibrant regalia. We walked through the beautifully restored cannery where local crafts were sold.
Juneau:
We arrived in the state capital at 8 a.m. at the A.J. Cruise Dock and stayed until 4:00 p.m. in the only capital of the continental United States that is inaccessible by car. Named for an early prospector, Juneau became Alaska’s capital in 1906 when the seat of government was moved from Sitka. The current population is about 31,000.
The dramatic fjord-like terrain of steep, rugged mountains and vast glaciers isolates the city, creating a remote setting with limited access from the rest of the mainland, by sea or water only. Its seclusion along the scenic Gastineau Channel makes it very picturesque.
In the morning, we explored the natural beauty of Alaska during a nature walk at the Eaglecrest Ski area on Douglas Island. After a scenic drive, Fern and I went on a guided hike and learned about the mountain’s flora and fauna as we immersed ourselves in the great outdoors, strolled by creeks and enjoyed awe-inspiring nature, as well as the fresh mountain air.
Later, we explored the compact but hilly downtown. We walked by the shops on Franklin and Front Streets and totem poles. On Fourth Street, the state capital building was not open on a Saturday. Built in 1930 and 1931, the Capitol building does not have a domed roof, but it does have an impressive façade with marble columns and wide steps. In front of this building, there is a large statue of William Seward, the Secretary of State who negotiated the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the U.S. and there is also a liberty bell replica.
The St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church was also not open. Built in 1894, on Fifth and Gold, the blue and white onion domed church is small but very pretty and it is a symbol of the former Russian presence in Alaska.
In the city’s Juneau – Douglas Museum, we learned tales of Juneau’s nineteenth century gold rush. The Museum is located at Fourth and Main Streets. It contains an interesting collection of maps, artifacts, photos, and videos, as well as stained glass and totem poles.
We headed up the hill for a private tour at the Wickersham House and state historic site on Seventh Avenue. James Wickersham was a pioneer judge and politician who came to Alaska in 1900. The house has amazing views looking down over Juneau and our guide explained how Wickersham worked to establish Denali as a national park and Alaska as a territory. The house includes many of his original furnishings and his collections. The large house was built in 1889. Its white exterior is not particularly impressive.
Skagway:
Set in a stunning glacial valley, Skagway was once the gateway to the gold-rich Canadian Yukon. The town was built on the bustling mining industry that once thrived here. We were in this port from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. About 100 of the town’s buildings date from the gold rush era. We carried our passports with us, as both of our journeys from Skagway went into Canada. Today the year-round population is about 800. At the town entrance is the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park.
One remnant of the gold era is the narrow-gauge railway that follows the original Yukon trail to the historic White Pass, high in the surrounding mountains. Completed in 1900 as a means for prospectors to reach the gold fields during the Klondike gold rush, its route is preserved as a heritage railway.
In the morning, we spent three hours going to the White Pass summit on the historic vintage Skagway and White Pass railroad. Due to a recent landslide in the area near the railroad dock, Fern and I had to take a shuttle bus to get to the railroad depot. The rail’s White Pass and Yukon route retraces the steps of the fortune seekers in their nineteenth century quest for gold.
We began our exhilarating journey by marveling at the scenic mountain vistas as we climbed to more than 3000 feet to the White Pass summit (at 3290 feet). The route includes cliffhanging turns and goes through several tunnels. Along the way, we went to the back of the rail car to better observe the unparalleled beauty of this landscape comprised of glaciers, mountains, gorges, and waterfalls.
The railway conductor provided narration of the key sites along the way, such as the original Klondike trail of 1898, worn into the rocks as a reminder of those who traversed the route in their search for gold. Additionally, we learned about the railroad’s challenging construction. In 1988, the railroad reopened for tourists.
In the afternoon, we took a bus trip beyond the White Pass and into British Columbia. After a scenic drive through the historic downtown, with its picturesque wooden boardwalks and vibrant false-fronted buildings, we drove by the historic Gold Rush Cemetery, the final resting place of Skagway’s most notorious characters. We drove by breathtaking glaciers and snowcapped peaks. The road is parallel to the railway but offers different viewpoints. We stopped in Canada at the Log Cabin, which is a trailhead for the Chilkoot Trail, formerly one of the gold rush routes and at the Welcome to Alaska sign near the U.S. port of entry.
Sitka:
We arrived at the Sitka terminal around 8 a.m. Although we did not have to be back on board until 3 p.m., we ended up returning earlier. A large Norwegian cruise ship was sharing the dock with Viking and, as a result, the shuttle bus to and from the town was extremely overcrowded. The town’s current population is 9000.
Sitka is the only town in Southeast Alaska facing the Gulf of Alaska. It has long been inhabited by Tlingit Native Americans. The town grew to become the capital of Russian Alaska. Remains of those days can be found in the striking Russian Orthodox Cathedral on Lincoln Street. Unfortunately, St. Michael’s Cathedral was not open during the time we were in the town, but we admired its beautiful dome.
At Harrigan Centennial Hall, we truly enjoyed the theatrical performance by the Alaska Storyteller Dancers. Fern and I marveled at the grace, energy, and talent of these dancers. Their stories strive to keep Alaska’s rich Russian and indigenous histories alive. Wearing beautiful and colorful costumes, the four dancers performed a series of dances conveying the chronological history of Sitka.
On the waterfront, we walked by Totem Square. The large totem pole displayed here is the double-headed eagle of Imperial Russia. The downtown is a cute three block long cluster of stores and restaurants. Here is where Alaska transferred from Russia to the United States in 1867.
I recall reading about Sitka in Michael Chabon’s The Yiddish Policeman’s Union, an alternate retelling of history where the town becomes the Jewish homeland instead of Israel. Back in reality, there is not even one synagogue in Sitka!
Ketchikan:
We arrived at our final Alaska port at around 8 a.m. in Ward Cove East and left this coastal community at 1 p.m. Ketchikan is called “Alaska’s First City” because it was the first port of call receiving supplies and mail from the south. The current population is around 8000.
The very pretty town of Ketchikan is set among the soaring coastal mountains and sloping woodlands of the vast Tongass National Forest. With a thriving fishing industry and Wild West atmosphere, Ketchikan also embraces its rich and enduring Tlingit native American heritage.
Ketchikan is home to the most standing totem poles anywhere in the world. The artful icons are sprinkled throughout its parks and cultural centers. We spent about 2- and one-half hours in the Potlach Totem Park. This park is a modern recreation of a nineteenth century native village. Located on historic Tlingit fishing grounds on the shore of Tongass Narrows, we thoroughly enjoyed our guided tour of the park. We saw numerous houses, totem poles and panels. Our guide explained the legends behind many of the totem pole designs. We briefly learned about the ancient native craft of totem pole carving in the park’s carving studio.
We spent about one hour walking through the lively waterfront and the historic downtown area. The “red light” district on Creek Street was fun to see, including Dolly’s House Museum, formerly the establishment of the town’s most famous madam and her “employees.” The Creek Street area is now very scenic. The boardwalk set on pilings goes over Ketchikan Creek and by many cute stores in wooden houses.
The Inside Passage:
On our second day at sea (without a port), we cruised along the Inside Passage from Ketchikan to Vancouver, British Columbia. We wound our way through the pristine wilderness of fjord-like channels. The Inside Passage is a vast maze of islands laden with emerald, green forests and strewn with glistening glaciers.
Periodically we looked out on deck at the tranquil and hushed scenes of nature at its most magnificent. Our views included tiny coastal villages, snowcapped mountains, and pine-covered hills.
Food options on our cruise:
World Café – We enjoyed breakfast every day at this buffet-style restaurant. The hot and cold items were very extensive. The granola cereal was among the best I have ever enjoyed. Fern liked her oatmeal, as well. The fruit was fresh. I was able to get non-dairy almond milk. Breakfast normally goes from 6:30 to 9 a.m.
At lunch, the hot and cold items were just as extensive as at breakfast. Most days we had salads. Each day there was some variation in the offerings, so some days were able to add fresh fish to the salad or various vegetables such as portobello mushrooms. Lunch goes from Noon to 2:30 p.m.
We only had a buffet style dinner once at the World Café, when the menu provided a theme option. Dinner is from 6 to 9 p.m.
Afternoon tea – every day from 4 to 5 p.m. we enjoyed this classical tradition in the Viking’s Wintergarden. Music varied day to day, including live guitar music or a classical duo or the resident pianist. Each day, Fern and I were able to pick out pastry or sandwich options that we vegan friendly. This was a very classy and relaxing experience.
Manfredi’s – we were able to eat dinner twice at this elegant Italian restaurant, where advanced reservations were required. Again, the staff tailored the menu to allow us several vegan options, including pastas, salads and vegetable side-dishes that were tasty and elegant. The staff were amazingly friendly and shared personal information about their countries of origin. Each evening Manfredi’s is open from 6 to 9 p.m.
The Restaurant – despite its simple name, this dinner option was a superb experience for most of our dinners with sit down table service. We enjoyed a variety of amazing salads and fish options. Each evening The Restaurant is open from 6 to 9 p.m. and advanced reservations are not required. In addition, on sea days only, The Restaurant is open for lunch.
There were several other food options that we did not try. Advanced reservations were required for The Chef’s Table. On the night that we made reservations for this restaurant, they were unable to modify the “set menu” to be vegan-friendly, so we went to Manfredi’s instead.
On the “sea days” we attended a cooking demonstration with the Executive Chef Camil when he prepared an Italian green salad, a pasta dish, and a dessert. Also, we went through the kitchens on a tour led by the chefs.
Tips:
We relied on two books for our cruise that were somewhat outdated, but useful, nevertheless: Alaska By Cruise Ship by Anne Vipond and the Moon Alaska Handbook by Don Pitcher.
The Viking’s fitness center was amazing and under-utilized. Open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. most days, the three-room facility offered a nice mix of cardio equipment, free weights, and machines. We were even able to do a yoga program, following from a video program. The fitness center manager Bjorn was very accommodating to our requests. On one of the sea days, we enjoyed relaxing in the Nordic Spa’s hot tub. Fern and I were surprised that the spa was not crowded at all.
This was our first ocean cruise. We were pleasantly surprised at the wide variety of educational and entertainment options each day. Additionally, the quality of these programs exceeded our expectations. Of note, on this cruise the resident astronomer presented several lively presentations in the Explorer’s Dome, a small planetarium. We attended “Under the Artic Sky” which focused on the night sky of Alaska. The day hours were full of daily activity including lectures from the resident historian Carole Fink. The evenings included musical entertainment in the Star Theater with a series of vocalists performing different shows.
The Alaska cruise experience is essential to seeing parts of the state that are otherwise inaccessible. The Viking experience was top notch! On Friday night, we were pleasantly surprised that a Shabbat service was available for the Jewish guests.
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