By Saul Schwartz
My wife Fern and I spent five summer days in Maui, primarily to attend my daughter’s wedding events. Maui is an interesting mix of volcanic landscapes, pretty beaches, and green valleys. The airport (in Central Maui) is small with limited food options.
Attractions:
Kaanapali Beach (West Maui). A cluster of high-rise hotels and condos frame the world-class sand beach. There are lots of activities here, including boat tours. A concrete pathway connects the various properties, along the beach. The white sand is very soft. We spent one day just relaxing here. The sun is very strong during the day. The blue green waters are simply stunning, with a backdrop of three other Hawaiian Islands.
Maui Nui Botanical Gardens (Central Maui). Just minutes from the airport, the Gardens feature native Hawaiian and Polynesian introduced species of plants and trees. Admission is $10 per adult. The seven-acre space was quiet on a Wednesday afternoon. The Gardens are dedicated to preserving Maui’s native plants and cultural heritage. Quite a few of the species featured are endangered. We wandered around to see hanging Hawaiian bananas, sugar cane, locally grown sweet potatoes, ipu fruit, and many other labelled plants and trees. Street parking is free at 150 Kanaloa Avenue. The staff answered our questions and provided a detailed brochure. The gardens can easily be viewed in about one hour, even if you meander off the paths. The community around the Gardens is called Kahului and it features a coastal sand dune environment. https://mnbg.org/
Maui Butterfly Farm (West Maui). The one-hour hands-on tour was very educational and family friendly. We had a chance to interact up close with a variety of butterflies. We walked inside several butterfly houses. Our tour guide was passionate about this subject, and she interacted well with the group. We also saw caterpillars and the praying mantis. The staff is trying to save Hawaii’s declining butterfly population. Free parking is available just outside the small farm. The farm is located at 820 Olowalu Village Road in Lahaina. Adult admission is $38, children’s admission is $30. Tours must be booked in advance on their web site. https://themauibutterflyfarm.com/
Maui Tropical Plantation (West Maui). Another family friendly activity, the plantation is located at 1670 Honoappilani Highway in Waikapu. The 60-acre plantation is an agricultural theme park, on the site of former sugar cane fields. The tropical express tram offers visitors an overview of Hawaii’s famous fruits and plants. The tram tour was almost one hour. In the middle, we stopped for a short coconut husking demonstration. The tour is guided, with informative narration provided by the driver as we went by different plants and animals. We looped around the lagoon through parts of the plantation only accessible by tour to the passengers on the tram. The cost is $25 per adult and $12.50 per child. https://mauitropicalplantation.com/eat-shop
The Road to Hana (East Maui). The Road to Hana is about the experience; not the destination (i.e., the town of Hana). I highly recommend an audio guide because the attractions are not well-marked. We used the classic road to Hana tour on the Shaka guide app (at a cost of $20). Our guided tour provided audio location-by-location with recommended stops and helpful information (such as bathroom information and Hawaiian history). It takes about one hour to get from West Maui to mile zero, the starting point of the Road to Hana. We spent about one-half of one day traveling the first half of the Road to Hana (and back to West Maui).
The Road to Hana, with its 600 curves and numerous one lane bridges, is a very scenic, but challenging drive. Its scenic vistas with ocean views, waterfalls, and greenery, maybe the most unforgettable memory of Maui for most visitors.
Our first stop (at mile marker 2) was at Twin Falls. There is a fee of $10 for parking (because the site is on private property). A short hike leads to the easily accessible waterfalls. This was the most crowded stop for us, with many tourists sitting by the pool of the falls in swimsuits. Next, we stopped at the Waikamoi Nature Trail (between mile markers 9 and 10), where we went on a short hike through eucalyptus and bamboo trees. Here we looked down at nice ocean views of the bright blue waters and waves crashing against the rocks. A short stop at the Waianapanapa State Park was an opportunity for bathrooms, viewing colorful trees, and more ocean views, along with the volcanic coastline. Access to the state park black sand beach required advanced reservations.
At mile marker 16, the Keanae Arboretum (no fee) allowed us to take a short hike on a paved pathway by labelled trees and plants of Hawaii. The lovely forest was nicely shaded. More rigorous hikes were also available. Colorful rainbow eucalyptus trees are one highlight to see. Our final stop was at the Halfway to Hana stand. Here we purchased the “original banana bread” of Maui and drinks. Opened in 1983, the stand also sells snacks and shave ice, at higher-than-expected prices, even for Maui. Colorful cardinals with red heads and white and black bodies wandered around, looking for dropped food.
We were content to have traveled about half of the 55-mile journey into the unspoiled East Maui path. This drive is what many consider to be the real Maui.
Food and Coffee/Tea:
Fork & Salad (Central Maui) – The motto here is eat local, eat healthy. This farm-to-table casual eatery features healthy, fresh signature salads and bowls. Located conveniently near the airport, this was a great spot for our first dinner on Maui. You can create your own salad or bowl, or you can order one of the listed mixes of ingredients. The impressive selection of add-ons includes products grown on Maui, such as purple sweet potatoes. Founded in 2016, the restaurant gets its food from local farmers, ranchers, and fishermen. We found the prices to be very reasonable for our tasty choices. Sandwiches and soups are also available. There is counter service and indoor seating. Located in a shopping center on 120 Hookele Street, there is plenty of free parking. There is a second location on Maui at 1279 S Kihei Rd. https://forkandsaladmaui.com/about.
Leilani’s on the Beach (Western Maui – Whaler’s Village) – Located at 2345 Kaanapali Parkway, this beachside eatery has amazing ocean views from the second level of the restaurant. Known for its locally caught fresh fish, seafood menu, and signature cocktails, the restaurant is family friendly with plenty of kids’ options. Although expensive, the food was very tasty, and the menu has creative options for its local fish. The staff was very attentive and friendly during our dinner. It is a great choice for special occasions. First opened in 1982, the restaurant has won several awards. https://www.leilanis.com/. 808 Old Town (Western/Central Maui – Wailuku Town) – Established in 2015, this popular sit-down restaurant offers a wide range of sandwiches, salads, bowls, burgers, and soups. Although the restaurant was very busy, the staff was attentive at lunchtime. The prices are reasonable. We enjoyed a bowl, with fish. There is free parking behind the bistro, which is located at 2051 Main Street. Reservations are recommended. ttps://www.808oldtown.com/. Maui Coffee Roasters (Central Maui) – A short drive from the airport, this colorful art filled café offers a wide selection of local freshly roasted coffees, teas and pastries. Indoor and outdoor seating is available. Located at 444 Hana Highway in a shopping center, plenty of free parking was available. The shop also sells Maui made products. The coffee and tea were superior in taste. Prices are reasonable. The staff was friendly. Colorful roosters wander outside the café. https://www.mauicoffeeroasters.com/.
Whaler’s Village Food Court (West Maui) – In between the hotels, Whaler’s Village is an outdoor beachside mall that has many upscale restaurants, a food court, and plenty of boutique stores on two levels. Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, the mall is in a very scenic location. At sunset, the views are incredible. https://www.whalersvillage.com/en/. The iced tea at Café Jai was exceptionally good; the acai bowls and farm fresh quick meals both looked amazing! https://cafejai.com/menu-1. Island Village Coffee, opened in 1996, had tasty, local chocolate banana bread, along with Kona coffee. https://www.islandvintagecoffee.com/.
Slappy Cake’s (West Maui) – Slappy Cakes is a full-service breakfast menu restaurant in Lahaina. Located at 3350 Lower Honoapiilani Rd #701, the food experience is highlighted by the option of making pancakes at your table on the built in griddles. Our server was very attentive. We were able to modify the mushroom scramble to make it vegan. The side of wheat toast was particularly tasty. Prices are moderate – for Maui. https://www.slappycakesmaui.com/.
For groceries, there are several Safeway locations with large stores. In general, food prices are very high on Maui, where ninety percent of food is brought in.
Lodging: Outrigger Kaanapali Beach Resort (West Maui) – Located at 2525 Kaanapali Beach Parkway, the Outrigger is within Kaanapali cluster of hotels. Although there is a very nice beach path available for walking and running, there is no hotel gym. Lodging prices on Maui are high and this resort was no exception. Our bed was comfortable, the balcony overlooking the ocean was nice, and the room size was more than adequate. Laundry facilities were available in two locations. The internet access was spotty. All types of beach rentals are available for a fee from an on-site third-party vendor. A large pool sits within a courtyard with plenty of chairs.
Helpful resources:
Fodor’s Maui (2020 edition) is now slightly dated but was a helpful guide to orient us around the island. Fodor’s recommendations were right on point, with tips, maps, and photos. With just under 300 pages of information, this travel guide may be the most comprehensive book-style travel guide for Maui. We enjoyed our five days in Maui. It is very different than other islands in Hawaii, providing a unique experience for us.
Real Travel Adventures 