When you think of Niagara Falls what comes to mind? The water of course, the Maid of the Mist, over the falls in a barrel, marriage and honeymoons. It has been 30 years since I last visited the New York side of Niagara Falls, so a weekend invitation intrigued me. In less than an hour Jet Blue landed in Buffalo, where a half-hour drive brought me to the 18 room Bed & Breakfast Red Coach Inn, across the street from the Niagara Falls State Park, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. I occupied the one bedroom Windsor Suite with river view, fireplace, whirlpool tub and a furnished kitchen. Every evening they placed a continental breakfast in my refrigerator. Before I unpacked it was up up and away, first by Rainbow Air’s helicopter and then Flight of Angels tethered balloon for fabulous views of both the American Falls & Horseshoe Canadian Falls.
I spent all but a few hours on the American side, but 14 million people visit the Canadian side, which has more attractions and more hotel rooms. Finally the US side is competing with the Seneca Indian Casino building a 26-story hotel with spa that will have the first 10 floors ready in the fall of 2005.
I got to the star attractions right after lunch and began with the Maid of the Mist that has operated since 1846. Standing at the bow of the boat you feel the mist spray in your face and the ponchos provided do keep out most of the water. If you want to get close up and personal with the Falls, walk or trolley to Goat Island and the Cave of the Wind and the Top of the Falls Restaurant. Take an elevator down 175 feet to the base of Bridal Veil Falls. Walk along the base of the Falls on a series of wooden stairs and decks. Rain gear and sandals are provided because you do get wet being only feet from the pounding waters.
Niagara Falls State Park is the oldest state park in the USA (1885) and draws 8 million visitors a year. Start at the Visitors Center where you can purchase a Master Pass that saves you 30% on all the major attractions. The New York State Observation Tower platform is 200 feet above the base of the Niagara Gorge and provides spectacular views of all three Falls. Glass lined elevators carry visitors to the lower landing where one can board the Maid of the Mist Boat Tour. The Niagara Scenic Trolley that has six get on/ get off locations throughout the park and is part of the Passport to the Falls, as is the Aquarium of Niagara, the Discovery Center, & the Cave of the Winds. Dinner the first night was at the Seneca Casino and the Western Door Steakhouse, which had an excellent wine list. I did not have time to get to the Niagara Aerospace Museum located directly across the street from the casino.
The next morning I walked across the bridge into Canada, which was a lot quicker than waiting in the line of cars awaiting inspection. Bring your passport or two forms of photo ID. I visited Inniskillin Winery & Jackson Triggs, both on Niagara on the Lake about 20 minutes from the border crossing. I was dropped off for a short tour at the new (June 2004) Fallsview Casino & Hotel. A short walk and I was at the Horseshoe Falls and back across the bridge into New York.
The highlight of my visit was that afternoon’s hour-long Whirlpool Jet Boat rides in nearby Lewiston, a picturesque town with a historic downtown. Jet Boat has hourly departures from April to October. Prepare to get soaking wet and then some. Think Class-5 Rapids with the boat operator trying to get everyone as wet as possible. There were people as young as 8 and several senior citizens (yours truly included); fun, fun, fun. Dinner in Lewiston was followed by a visit to Old Fort Niagara in Youngstown, on Lake Ontario for a reenactment of one of the battles of the War of 1812.
My last full day was devoted to visiting orchards and wineries along the brand new Niagara NY Wine Trail, which begins only 15 minutes from Niagara Falls. Pick your own or “ready picked” fruits and vegetables at Beckers Farms & Vizcarra Vineyards. Taste the homemade pies, fudge and jams and the wine; visit the farm animals, or use the kid’s playground. There are pig races, grape stomping, tractor rides, music, shops, and lots of food. On the early fall Sunday I visited there were thousands of people, with their kids, and all seem to be having fun. I had high tea at Murphy’s Orchards while watching people pick their own apples. I had met Mike VonHeckler 25 years ago while he was just getting started in the wine business. His Warm Lake Estate Vineyard & Winery is the shinning star of the Niagara Wine Trail. He produces only Pinot Noir; excellent wine.
The weather was perfect, wine and food first class, and Mother Nature was the main attraction. The city of Niagara Falls has made a commitment to redevelopment to keep pace with their Canadian neighbors. New hotels and more businesses downtown would help. But less than an hour away from the Falls are many great attractions that can keep a visitor coming back for more.
Real Travel Adventures 